Why come here? Modern, affordable Italian in the West Village
Right Amount for 2? 1 Appetizer and/or salad, a pasta and an entree
According to MenuPages, there are 113 Italian restaurants in the West Village although it often feels like there could be that many on Seventh Avenue alone. Most of them serve some mix of mediocre fried calamari, doughy pizza and standard red sauce pastas and are reserved for B&T groups looking to make same-day party of eight reservation in “The Village.” So I’ll excuse your yawns when you heard Pagani opened on the corner of 7th & Bleecker. But this newcomer brings a much needed upgrade to the strip and should move to the top of your list for a lively, causal meal in the area.
Brought to you by Massimo Lusardi of Uva fame, Pagani brings the trendy casual vibe you search for in the West Village, yet is somehow missing from the surrounding moderately priced Italians. The blonde wood and smokey tiled bar area is fairly large and open, making it pleasant place to enjoy one of their delicious artisan cocktails while waiting to be seated. The waitstaff is young and playful, shunning the tired formal, old-school Italian service model. The main dining area is fairly small and intimate, with a semi-private area in back in case you’re rolling deep.
Matt Barrett formerly of Babbo delivers a menu that may not set the foodie world ablaze, but contains a nice selection of well executed dishes. Between the pastas, salads, fish and meat even the friend who can never “find anything she can eat” will be satisfied. Of the six items across the menu everything was solid with prices coming in at a reasonable $15-22 for entrees. The wine list also contains a refreshingly large selection of wines under $50, instead of the token one or two typically found nearby. My top picks are below:
Duck Leg Confit A rich, meaty leg of duck tempered by the dried cherry mustard and a goat cheese toast. A great starter to share with a friend.
Apple Fennel Salad Combined with arugula and goat cheese, it’s a refreshing salad that has a nice balance of peppery and sweet.
Ravioli Cacciatore The chef’s play on chicken cacciatore contains perfectly cooked chicken and pasta in a tangy, meaty sauce. It’s a on the smaller side, but perfect if your saving energy to go out afterwards.
Pagani
289 Bleecker Street (@ 7th Ave)
New York, NY