Mole Poblano
Why Come Here? NYC’s best mole sauces, authentic Mexican small town feel
Right Amount for 2: 1 App, 2 Entrees
Mexican restaurants in NYC tend to fall into two categories: the hole-in-the-wall taqueria and the upcale “Modern Mexican.” While I certainly enjoy frequenting both of these concepts, what’s missing is the neighborhood place that does the traditional dishes right. Or so I thought until I was invited to a press dinner at El Maguey y La Tuna. Although it’s been open for over 20 years (many of those in Williamsburg before it was cool), it somehow has managed to remain under the food world’s radar. With its collection of incredible mole sauces and small town Mexico vibe, it’s time for that to change.
El Maguey is a Cortez family affair with mama and papa in the kitchen and daughter Maria working the front of the house and doing her best to make you feel like you’re part of the family as well. They’ve created an ambiance that has everything you need to feel transported to their hometown of Puebla including tiled walls and tables, old family photos and terra cotta plates. Combine that with some fantastic salsa music and you’ve got a great spot for eating and drinking the night away.
Jalapeno Poppers
When it comes to the food, the mole sauces are the star. If you’ve never been impressed with the moles you’ve eaten in NYC, I can understand your lack of enthusiasm. But these are the real deal. Manuela (Maria’s mother) learned to make these sauces from her mother and is the only person I know of in NYC using the labor intensive traditional methods. This includes her mole poblano, a “celebration mole” usually only seen at a wedding or quincinera (been to many recently?) which literally takes days to make properly. The complex flavors that result are well worth the wait, but fortunately you can have yours in a matter of minutes. There are several simpler moles on the menu as well that may take less time to make but still manage to pack grande flavor. If you ask nicely, you may even get to sample a few. A similar care goes into the sangria, which uses fermented fruits (and other secret ingredients Maria wouldn’t share) for a unique and delicious taste. Below is a rundown of what we ate:
Mole Poblano 
I pity the fool who has only eaten this at Americanized restaurants. The real mole poblano here contains over 20 spices, takes 2 days to make and the combination of sweet and spice is as rich and complex as any sauce I’ve eaten. Do yourself a favor and try the real thing here.
Jalapeño Poppers Stuffed with shrimp as well as cheese, these are as far from your standard jalapeño poppers as the mole. Fried until crispy, you need to start your meal with an order.
Adobo Rojo 
If you like sauces with a little smokiness, this one is for you. It’s rich, tangy and a great compliment to the pork.
Banana Pinata 
A banana empanada with freshly mashed sweet bananas, chocolate sauce and a creamy neapolitan ice cream with pistachio replacing the usual chocolate. It’s cool and refreshing without being too sweet and makes a great palate cleanser after the rich and spicy moles.
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El Maguey y La Tuna
321 East Houston Street (Attorney & Ridge Sts.)
New York, NY
