Why Come Here? A great bowl of ramen on the lighter side
Following my life-altering ramen experience at Ippudo, I have set out on a quest to explore the world of these high-end Japanese soup noodles. For my sophomore bowl I decided upon newcomer Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop. Why you may ask? Well let’s just say it’s gotten some impressive accolades. The Tokyo flagship – started by Long Island native Ivan Orkin – has taken the world’s ramen capital by storm. A that storm has blown across the Pacific with Ivan recently named one of the top 25 new US restaurants by GQ and best ramen in the city by New York Magazine. So yeah, that pretty much sums it up.
Before I get to the ramen – a little about the rest of the place. The space itself is more eating counter than restaurant and as such there’s not much to speak of in the way of decor. It’s basically an open commercial kitchen with a large metal dining counter. Sitting at one of the wooden communal tables throughout the the market is your other option. There is no waiter service or anything fancy like that, just a cashier to take your order and call out your name when it’s ready.
The menu is not actually limited to ramen, although it’s by no means expansive. Other options are basically a side salad, Mazeman – a thick brothed noodle dish – and a pair of rice bowls. There are no real appetizers to speak of. Combine that with the eating counter feel, and you realize it’s called a “slurp shop” for a reason. You sit, you slurp, you say sayonora. But hey, at least it means no 2 hour waits.
Okay on to the ramen. Comparing Ivan’s to my standard bearer Ippudo I would say they are… quite different. The major reason is the broth, which is significantly lighter due to the use of chicken and dashi instead of Ippudo’s pork. Ivan also uses rye noodles which are chewier and perhaps a little more flavorful. Overall it’s a more delicate and intricately flavored dish that’s very enjoyable but lacks the punch of the heartier Ippudo style. So while I highly recommend you give it a try, I think the “best ramen in the city” accolades have had more to do with the ingenuity than the taste. Ippudo remains my king, but I’ll certainly keep Ivan in the rotation for when I want something on the lighter side.
Tokyo Shio Ramen As I said, it lacks the punch of Ippudo, but still manages an enjoyable garlicky-salty flavor. I really enjoyed the chewy rye noodles, although while the pork belly was melt in your mouth good, I expected more than 2 square inches of it (you can get more for $2). Go in knowing you’re getting a bowl of lighter soup rather than a rich, hangover curing gut bomb and you won’t be disappointed.
Tokyo Shoyu Ramen The only difference between this and the shio is that soy sauce replaces sea salt. I slightly preferred the shio.
Roasted Garlic Mazeman This reminded more of a garlicky alfredo pasta than a bowl of ramen. It’s a solid choice if you’re in the mood for something heftier.
Cabbage Salad If you feel the need for some veggies to go with your bowl, the creamy miso dressed cabbage will do the job nicely.
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Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop
Gotham West Market
600 Eleventh Avenue (44th & 45th Sts)
New York, NY