Why Come Here? Top notch BBQ, great whiskey and craft beer selection, best ribs in the city
Right Amount for 2? 1 lbs of various meats, 2 small sides
In recent years, New York has quietly become one of Americas BBQ hotspots thanks to a slew Southern transplants who have graciously decided to share their techniques with us Yanks. Fette Sau was early to the game when it opened in 2008, yet somehow I never managed to make my way over until last week. Now that I have, I’m happy to report Fette is still serving up some of the city’s best ‘cue, including my new favorite ribs in town.
Fette Sau is German for “the fat pig” but the only thing German about this place is it’s love of meat and beer. In many ways, Fette is exactly what you expect a BBQ joint in Williamsburg to be. The only indication you’re approaching is a neon sign on Metropolitan Avenue, which leads you down a barbed wired off alleyway to a converted garage where it all goes down. Seating is at communal picnic tables, over half of which are located outside in the alley. Given both inside and outside were packed on a weekday evening, I can’t imagine what trying to grab a spot in the colder months is like.
When you reach the garage, you’ll notice a line protruding out of it into the alley. This is the line to order food at the counter and you can expect to spend some time here. Once you make your way inside, a board to the right lists the meats being smoked that day and the price per pound. Plan on getting about half a pound per person, more if you get the ribs (which you better) to account for the bone. You can’t really go wrong, so I recommend ordering all the meats you can handle and sharing them with the table. Ditto for the sauces, of which there are three on your table. Let’s call them The Tangy (orange), The Spicy (black) and The Sour (vinegar). Feel free to use all liberally on all meats.
At this point, you’ll need something to wash down all the meat you just purchased. So look to your left to find the bar. All the care that goes into selecting high quality meats caries over to the booze. There’s a reasonably large selection of craft beers you’ve never heard, served by the pint, quart and gallon from taps topped with various butcher knives. They also have over 40 American whiskeys to sample and a handful of rare wines. So be prepared to go home drunk as well as stuffed.
Here’s a rundown of what I’ve tried:
Beef Ribs Best ribs I’ve had in NYC. Ridiculously meaty, 2 of these bad boys weighed over 1/3 lbs. The dry rub has a little hint of sweetness to combat the smokiness and is phenomenal.
Brisket Smokey, moist, melt-in-your mouth brisket. This stacks up well to any in town.
Pulled Pork A little smokey and very tender, this is some solid pulled pork. It’s probably a little less fatty than what you find down South. I’ll leave it up to you to decide whether that makes it better. What certainly doe is putting on the little rolls you’re given with some of The Spicy.
Spicy Sausage This is the only thing my mouth isn’t still watering thinking about. I found the sausage a little too fatty and a little to low on smoke flavor for my taste.
Broccoli This is the way broccoli should always be cooked: crispy but not tough. Covered in a light vinaigrette sauce, it’s a solid option if you’re looking for a little something that won’t clog your arteries.
Pickles This cucumber was so refreshing I’m not convinced it was actually pickled. It’s nothing to write home about, but makes for a pleasant palate cleanser between bites.
Fette Sau
354 Metrolpolitan Avenue (Roebling & Havemeyer Sts.)
Brooklyn, NY