Why Come Here? Top notch New American cuisine, fine dining in Williamsburg, great food with generally no waits
Right Amount for 2? A snack, a starter and 2 mains
When you enter The Elm, you’ll wonder if the long flight of stairs you just walked down somehow tunneled you into Manhattan. This might be the only restaurant in Williamsburg without an exposed brick in site. The modern three-story space is loaded with metal, wood and plants and looks more like the trendy fine dining spaces found on the other side of the East River. Perhaps this design has left the local populace confused as the place was inexplicably half-filled on a Friday night. Seriously, this might be the best restaurant in NYC you can get into without a wait most nights.
My first experience with chef Paul Liebrandt’s cooking was at Corton in Tribeca. It was a high end concept offering only a tasting menu with a focus on molecular gastronomy and I also felt it never got the love it deserved (although it did receive 2 Michelin Stars). At the Elm, he takes a more casual approach to both the setting and the food with an a la carte menu and a more familiar French-New American style. With seven of us dining for my mother’s birthday, I got to sample a reasonable number of items. Everything impressed with great ingredients and interesting preparations. In fact, there wasn’t a thing on the menu I wouldn’t have been excited to have on my plate. The prices are even reasonable with most entrees in the mid-$20s, although they are on the smaller side so a starter is advisable. We tried a few cocktails too and they were also all very enjoyable. The point is I don’t understand why more people aren’t coming here, but get here soon and keep these guys in business. Here’s everything I tried:
Crab Doughnuts I thought I’d seen everything when it comes to crab cakes. Then Chef Lebrandt stuffed a lightly seasoned ball of crab into a doughnut like shell making the perfect snack to share with the table.
Foie Gras It’s hard to go wrong when there’s a nice hunk of foie on your plate. The tart sweet apricot was a nice touch and foie lovers can order this one with confidence.
Porcletta The Elm does a nightly special and this is currently the Friday edition. It was described to me as “the porterhouse of a teenage Canadian pig covered in bacon jus.” Sounds pretty wild, eh. It is and its also probably the best pork chop I’ve eaten. Get it.
Salmon An exciting piece of salmon is hard to come by, but this is the good stuff. It comes in a red curry sauce and kale and needs to be in front of you if you’re going pescaterian.
Duck Very nice rare hunk of duck breast with the unexpected combination of radish and hazelnuts. A solid choice.
Striped Bass A meaty piece of the fish, perfectly cooked and seasoned with black garlic. Probably the lightest option of the mains.
Steak Frites A center cut 30 day aged NY Strip with great flavor and a little char on the edges. Bonus points for the frites, which are crispy and excellent. Also quite reasonable at $29.
The Elm
160 N. 12th Street (Bedford & Berry Sts.)
Brooklyn, NY