Delaware & Hudson

Delware & Hudson Why Come Here? One of the best value and most approachable tasting menus in NYC

Just looking at Delaware & Hudson, there’s little that entices you to dine there. It occupies a sliver of a space on a Williamsburg side street with an entry way that’s basically just a place to hang your coat. Even knowing where I was going, I stared at it for a minute wondering what it was before realizing I had reached my destination. And the fact that their cuisine is described as “regional food from Baltimore to Buffalo” (another Brooklyn “local” food place!) is unlikely to make anyone rush to the L train.

But being unassuming can be a good thing, a point that’s often forgotten in the New York dining scene. The narrow interior with wooden tables and landscape paintings creates a a cozy space that feels like someone’s country home. And while many tasting menus today aim to be the height of foodie opulence, D&H manages to keep theirs both affordable and relatively simple. The dishes have enough frills to keep a foodie happy, but there’s nary a one your Mother would scoff at.

What’s actually on the menu changes weekly depending on ingredient availability but the basic concept remains the same: apps, a pasta, an entree and dessert. Where I was most surprised was the sheer number of starters. When we saw a list of eight, we immediately began discussing which would choose. Then we learned you get them all. At $48 that possibly make D&H the best value per plate menu in the city. Every thing we tried was very good with several standouts. If you’re looking for a big meal or looking to impress out of town guests (or Brooklyn skeptical Manhattanites) this is a great option at a very reasonable price.

We came for the Feast of the Fishes menu served around Christmas. Here’s what we ate:

Fennel & Potato Soup The warm tangy creaminess makes this a dish you’ll wish you could eat everyday this winter.

Pretzel Rolls Warm, doughy and with just the right amount of that baked, salty pretzel taste. I hear these are normally on the menu, which is a very good thing.

Fried Oyster with Kohlrabi Slaw Lightly fried with a slightly spicy dressing, these were gone way too fast.

Smoked Bluefish Pate Smokey bluefish with a refreshing slaw on a toast point. This feels like something that would be an hors d’ouevs at a fancy cocktail party. I want to go to that party.

Salt Cod Croquettes A solid version of the classic fish stick.

Potato Latkes, Creme Fraiche, Trout Roe Nothing too unique about these latkes other than the salty roe, but they came out perfectly.

Spaghetti w/ Sardines The handmade spaghetti in lemon zest was excellent. I’m sure the sardines were too, I’m just not a fan of these oily little guys. If you are, this will likely rate higher for you.

Pan Roasted Cod Served with carrots, parsnips and winter greens it definitely fit the “seasonal” bill. It was a nice hunk of fish, but nothing worth getting overly excited about.

Lamb Chops I consider lamb the most hit-or-miss of meats. I also view chops as the riskiest of cuts. But the gamble paid off here with tender juicy meat and just the right amount of gaminess.

Chanterelle & Black Truffle Mushrooms Mushrooms are another ingredient where the quality and preparation make all the difference. These were spot on. The sweet potato puree helped cut the earthiness while a poached egg added richness.