Why Come Here? Innovative cooking in Gowanus including an 80-day dry aged ribeye, laidback rustic vibe
Things are heating up in Gowanus, and it’s not just a result of the canal becoming radioactive. The old industrial area that was once a sign you had wondered too far west out of Park Slope is becoming a dining and nightlife destination in itself. And one of the people on the forefront is Chef John Poirkoff of The Pines who is quietly doing some very innovative cooking down there.
My recent visit centered around a conversation Matt Bruck and Johnny Prime Steaks had with John in which announced he was dry aging a Ribeye for 80 days. Based on this premise I joined in along with Instagram stars Rebbeca_Chews_NYC, AllisonKimchi and Jillish_ to sample a tasting of what The Pines has to offer.
The Pines is located on Third Avenue in Brooklyn, a place I admittedly had not ventured, as with most areas best reached via the R train. That said, it was actually only about a 20 minute ride from Union Square. Inside is a space best described as 80s Mountain lodge meets urban kitchen. Tables of reclaimed wood, a wall that looks like it was stripped of its paper long ago and a set of keys as if you could spend the night (after two giant cuts of meat you’ll wish you could) are just a sampling of the decor. There’s also a garden in back the resembles a picnic area. Expect some cookouts back there in warmer months.
In addition to the 80 day aged ribeye, John also does a 35 day and is dry aging ducks as well. The latter had to wait for a future visit, but we did add the 35er for a vertical steak tasting. While this carnivorous conquest may have been our reason for the visit, the rest of the offerings were actually quite diverse. The menu ranges from snacks to market vegetables to pastas in addition to the meats. We tried something from every section, always interestingly prepared with excellent results. Here’s the rundown:
Bread 
Usually I don’t write up the bread, but this is certainly a course of the meal and not an after thought. It fits the lodge theme perfectly, appearing to have been causally ripped off a large loaf with a splattering a creamy butter on the side of the bowl instead of neatly placed into a little cup. It’s also quite tasty.
Foie Gras Cookie 
Sort of like a mini-chipwich of foie gras with the gingersnap cookie and pistachios replacing the chocolate chips. While the original chipwiches I grew up on will always have a place in my heart, I have to admit I love this more.
Cabbage 
Next was a plate of cabbage with maitake mushrooms and cauliflower in a slightly spicy sauce. It’s a good way to get your vegetables.
Autumn Greens If you want something a little more greenery, The Pines doesn’t skimp there either. A salad of crisp leafy greens, sweet potatoes and blue cheese is quite enjoyable.
Trenette mussels, turnips, yuzu This might be the first appearance of yuzu in a pasta and I like the refreshing hint of sweentess it added. Mussels and pickled turnips complete an unusual but delicious dish. In case you’re curious, trenette is basically a thinner fettucine.
The Ribeyes: For the main event John presented his two ribeyes. There was no doubt which one had been aged more than twice as long as it had been reduced to a far less formidable size (look at the two side-by-side on my plate). The taste also left no question. While the 35 day had the meaty taste you look for at a top steakhouse, the 80 day was something different – an almost blue cheese like funkiness developed from all that time spent in the locker. Both were tender and nicely charred after being cooked sous vide and grilled. The 80 day is worth trying for it’s uniqueness, although if I was having just one as an entree I would stick to the 35 day. But clearly you need to round up some friends and order both (preferably reserved in advance as quantities are limited).
35 Day Aged 80 Day Aged
Roasted Parsnip Cake & Chocolate Cake By the time dessert rolled around I was pretty stuffed so I only took a bite of each. Both were very interesting and very good. The Parsnip Cake comes with brandied cranberries and buttermilk ice cream. The Chocolate Cake with Cashew-Sage ice cream and pomegranate.
The Pines
284 Third Avenue (President & Carroll Sts.)
Brooklyn, NY
