Note: I was invited as a guest of the establishment and received a complimentary meal. This was not in exchange for a positive review and opinions expressed are my own.
Why Come Here? Traditional and modern tapas at reasonable prices, molecular gastronomy
Molecular gastronomy never fully caught on in New York, and I never understood why. Are most New Yorkers really too squeamish to enjoy a lemon flavored foam or exploding ball in their mouth? I know many have done worse. And if Alinea can kill it in Chicago with molecular gastronomy, I know we can eat it better here. At Nai Tapas Bar chef Ruben Rodriguez has brought this technique back alongside traditional tapas from his native Galicia. I’m hopeful that the mixture breeds success as I’m excited to report both styles are excellent here.
Nai’s East Village location does not look like a place you would eat what is perhaps the most innovative Spanish cuisine in New York. Instead, it resembles a traditional Spanish tavern. It’s a rustic space featuring beamed ceilings, walnut tables, exposed brick. The only hints of the modernism coming from the kitchen come for the surrealist murals and carvings created by Rodriguez’s brother.
The walnut and brick bar includes three casks and the word “win” because what else would you do at the bar? Well for starters you can drink one of their 20 small production Spanish wines (all available by the glass) or a Spanish beer (where else can you get those in NYC?). The homemade sangria is delicious as well and only $22 for pitcher Monday – Wednesday. This summer, the second floor is slated to open up with additional seating, a larger wine list and – most excitingly – a tasting counter.
The word Nai means “mother” in Galician and it is she who inspired Rodriguez to become a chef. Her traditional Galician recipes are a closely guarded family secret and constitute the tradtional tapas available . The rest of the menu features a rotating selection of modern and molecular gastronomy dishes using techniques Rodgriguez picked up working in some of Europe’s top restaurants. This combination may be a first in a New York and makes Nai a must try for foodies and lovers of more traditional Spanish cuisine alike.
As I was here for a press dinner, we got to sample a large portion of the menu. As you can see from the photos below, presentation is part of the draw here:
Olive Spherification Basically an explosion of olive oil in your mouth. Lots of fun.
Mini-Airbags of Manchego Foam & Jamon Iberico This manchego foam is basically an ambrosia you could put on anything and it would be delicious. It was paired with some excellent jamon iberico for the “meat & cheese” course.
Oyster with Lemon Foam At $14 for a half dozen blue point oysters, you also get lemon foam and a small glass of their cava sangria. An absolute steal.
Seabass Wrapped in Toast The toast was surprisingly light and the orange emulsion and balsamic are a great combination.
Shrimp in Garlic Sauce Forget everything you know about the oily, overly garlicky sauces most Spanish restaurants bathe their shrimp in. This sauce is perfectly balanced using one of Nai’s old recipes. Even with nearly 20 nearly courses coming, I had to dip some bread in to get my hands on more.
Avocado Stuffed Crab and Serrano ham Think of it as the Spanish sushi roll. You want it.
Sangria infused Watermelon Because why not?
Smoked Chicken Skewers Tender smokey sous-vide cooked thighs on a skewer.
Brussles Sprouts with Diced Pork Belly Just when you think everything that can be done with brussels has been the past few years, Rodriguez comes back with something completely different. Diced pork belly, a spicy mustard aioli and some apples to bring on the sweetness.
Pork Belly w Pecans Tender meat, sweet pecans, tangy carrot puree. Great stuff.
Baby Back Ribs with Carboles Potatoes and Fried Peppers Tender, nicely spiced rib meat.
Basque Chorizo Sausage, manchego, piquillos and quail egg on toast – it’s basically all tapas in one. But what makes it is the amazing flavor of the chorizo. A must order.
Pear Cotton Candy A fun end of meal palate cleanser with a hint of sour apple.
Chocolate Filled Churros Soft, airy and chocolaty it’s a perfect churro.
Nai Tapas Bar
174 First Avenue (10th & 11th Streets)
New York, NY