Why Come Here? A unique dining experience recommended for all foodies
Since opening a few months back, Lowlife has received somewhat mixed reviews from the food community. Part of this stems from the fact that Lowlife is clearly striving to do something different. And different isn’t always comfortable, nor is it necessarily better. I certainly wouldn’t recommend Lowlife as the first restaurant you go to in New York. But when you dine out in a city like this all the time, unique experiences become harder to come by. So even if it’s not perfect I give kudos to ex-Bianca Chef Alex Leonard for doing something different. And for making some excellent food in the process.
As I mentioned, being different works better in some ways than other. One place it works well here is the food. Sorry picky eaters – there’s no burger and limited vegetarian options. Everything here is unique and somewhat of a surprise. Order something seemingly simple like a borscht soup and it comes out in three parts – with no liquid. A basic sounding chicken yakitori comes out as a half chicken on the bone with no skewers and sweet & tangy terikyaki sauce. This playfulness resonates throughout the menu and helps make Lowlife in my mind destination every foodie should try.
It’s once you get past the plate that some of the attempts to stand out don’t go quite so well. The large space sort of feels like a Nordic cabin with lots of fresh pine and some actual trees and plants. But despite its size the tables are packed tighter than the mats at a Monday night Yoga to the People class. And despite the upscale offerings, the little-too-clubby soundtrack feels like it’s pumping you up for your next bar on the LES.
Also – shall I say different – is the menu itself which runs as a single list despite the fact that some dishes are “appetizers” and others “mains for two.” Somethings are the way they are for a reason. Anyway, be sure to consult your server for advice on portions. Fortunately ours was quite helpful despite pushing a little too much food (did he really think two of us could finish a full chicken after four appetizers?). The pacing of the meal was perfect with our plates never piling up as they do at so many restaurants. The lesson: focus on what’s in front of you and you’ll have a great meal here.
Borscht 
The “borscht” is in fact pureed beets with raw cream and trout roe for saltiness. It’s a fun way to start your meal, but think of it as more of a palate cleanser than appetizer.
Lamb Tartare 
I’ve come to the conclusion the lamb in underrated as a meat to eat raw. One of the simpler dishes on the menu with just mint, sea salt and egg this was also perhaps my favorite. The buttery/garlicky crackers that taste like a thin, fresh Bagel Crisp don’t hurt either.
Poached Lobster Fact: lobster is more fun to eat when the butter is foamy and tarragon flavored.
Mushroom Ravioli Creamy pureed wild mushrooms matched with crispy air dried beef and a good sprinkling of pepper make for a tasty and well textured pasta.
Chicken Yakitori I’m not sure exactly what makes this “yakitori” as it in no way resembles the thin grilled skewers of chicken you get at Japanese restaurants. But I also don’t really care. The charred skin had an amazing sweet and tangy teriyaki taste to it and even the breast meat was moist. Get a half order unless you’re rolling six deep.
Right Amount for 2? Difficult to say as sizes vary. We could have dropped a smaller plate and been fine.
Lowlife
178 Stanton Street (Clinton & Attorney Sts.)
New York, NY
