Why Come Here? New York’s best vegetarian restaurant
It seems like a hot new vegetarian / vegan restaurant is opening every couple weeks in New York. But Dirt Candy is the original gangster of the gourmet greens movement and still the one to beat. Even eight years on and with a much larger location, primetime reservations need to be secured two months out. Unable to get excited about eating veggie that far in advance, I had never gone until recently. Now that I have I understand why these tables are so hard to come by.
The Lower East Side location of the new Dirt Candy has the trendy vibe you expect in that neighborhood. There’s a sleek white walled dining area with flower decals on the walls. The menu lists the main vegetable of the dish in huge letters in wacky fonts. At the center of the room you can watch the action unfold with a completely open kitchen surrounded by a tasting counter.
It’s here that Chef Amanda Cohen displays her mastery not just of cooking vegetables, but seemingly every ethnic cuisine imaginable. There’s Indian curry smothered fries, Southern-style hush puppies and Korean Fried Broccoli. All extremely well executed. The menu itself is divided into snacks / sides and “vegetables.” Think of the “vegetables” as big tapas that you’ll probably want two of per person, along with a snack. The desserts don’t quite live up to the savories, but the fact that you’re enjoying vegetables for dessert at all is a testament to the magic of this kitchen. It may look pricey, but note that gratuity is included. Here’s what we tried:
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Vegetable Bread 
The meal kicks off with some insanely good bread with a variety of vegetables baked in. Try not to fill up on it.
Snacks
Korean Fried Broccoli 
The description on the menu reads “basically it’s crack in broccoli form.” No arguments here. The sweet-spicy Korean fry is broccoli at its best.
Jalapeno Hush Puppies These buttery corn balls get just the right amount of kick from the jalapenos, cooled with a creamy maple butter.
Curried Fries Served with paneer and curry, this is basically an Indian poutine.
Vegetables (Large Tapas Sized)
Broccoli Dog Amanda Cohen does some amazing things with vegetables here, but none more so than the much maligned broccoli. The dog offers a mustardy smokiness that will makes you forget there’s no meat inside (if you can call hot dog fillings that…) Even your 7-year-old self would approve.
Mushroom 
The signature dish from the original Dirt Candy, it’s definitely the fanciest thing on the menu. It’s also the first time I’ve loved a portobello dish. Basically you’ve got a mousse of the mushroom to spread onto a piece of truffle toast along with Asian pears and cherries. Definitely a must order.
Brussels Sprouts Tacos The winner from a presentation perspective, the brussels come out on a hot stone along with all the fixins you could want. Instead of tortillas, your taco is wrapped in a piece of lettuce. Because vegetarian restaurants are supposed to be healthy, right?
Tomato Tomato and feta is always a solid combo, if not a very original one. But this arrives engulfed in the tomato skin like a tart and feta is smoked. It doesn’t disappoint, unlike this photo.
Eggplant Served mapo tofu style (without the tofu) this is the spiciest dish on the menu. A topping of pea shoots helps keep your mouth refreshed.
Carrot Fact: Carrot sliders on carrot buns are the most fun way to get your vitamin A. Sorry Flinstones chewables.
Zucchini Fried balls of something on a stick is as sure a winner in America as it gets. But it also has a somewhat high ceiling. The rolls of zucchini on the side add a pleasing freshness.
Dessert
Celery Cheesecake Roll Served with a celeriac ice cream, nothing about this dish sounds appealing. But trust me, it works somehow.
Carrot Meringue Pie 
Carrot is the meringue pie you never knew you wanted. It’s also definitely the sweetest of the desserts we ordered.
Cucumber Semifreddo 
The berry toppings, cookie crust and labne have the makings of a great slice of pie. But I couldn’t quite get behind the cucumber filling.
Right Amount for 2? 2 snacks, 3-4 large plates
Dirt Candy
86 Allen Street
New York, NY
