Chinese food comes in many varieties in New York but to me there clear top 2 are Dim Sum and Sichuan. Finding a place that can nail the Central Chinese province’s cooking and the Cantonese brunch food however is like looking for a restaurant that does great pulled pork and pizza. Two different styles from two distinct regions, rarely done well together. So my ideal meal of soup dumplings and pork buns followed by dan dan noodles and mapo tofu has remained nothing more than a pipe dream. That is until I was invited to dine at Flaming Kitchen (note: if your dream also involves karaoke after, they’ve got you covered in the upstairs lounge).
Flaming Kitchen succeeds in doing right by both cuisines by employing separate Dim Sum and Sichuan chefs. So expect dumplings with perfectly thin and chewy skins and Sichuan dishes that pack all the heat you hope for without going over the top. While they will turn down the spice on request, I recommend going for the full-on version if you can take it and adding something cooling like the cucumber salad to retain feeling in your mouth.
In addition to all your favorites in both categories, Flaming Kitchen offers a number of intriguing chef specialties. These include Fish with Szechuan Chili Miso Sauce, Braised Fish Fillet with Chili Sauce, Double Cooked Pork, and Crispy Smoked Duck. Naturally this leads to a pretty extensive menu. Fortunately our waiter Griffin did an incredible job of helping us navigate it and find some unexpected gems.
The space is decidedly more modern than your typical Chinatown eatery. The high ceilings, Chinese wood carvings, TVs and less intrusive lighting help make Flaming Kitchen a more enjoyable dining experience than many of its neighbors. There’s also an upstairs area for parties or just staring down at the masses. This setting combined with the diverse and well executed menu make Flaming Kitchen an ideal spot for your next Chinatown group outing.
Here’s what I tried:
Sliced Pork with Spicy Garlic Sauce Pork is rolled with cucumbers in a sweet-salty garlic sauce. This cold starter is a perfect summer dish and you’ll definitely want to start your meal with an order.
Pan Fried Mini-Pork Buns The buns get a nice crispy bottom from the pan but the dough on top remains chewy. Bite inside to find the prize: lemongrass spiced pork.
Steamed Pork & Crabmeat Juicy Dumpling (Soup Dumplings) Xiao Long Bao are one of my favorite snacks, but they’re hit-or-miss in New York. Flaming Kitchen has some of the thinnest skin in town and the broth has a distinctive crab flavor.
Wontons with Spicy Chili Oil Kicking off the spicy courses were these wontons. If you like spicy dumplings, you’ll want an order.
Dan Dan Noodles I’ve noticed a trend recently of places drowning their Dan Dans in way too much sauce. Not so here. Flaming Kitchen also gives you the right amount of pork and lets you add your own level of heat (on the side of the bowl) which is nice for sharing with your less spice-inclined friends.
Ox Tongue & Tripe with Chili Sauce This is definitely not a dish I would have ordered had it not been for our waiter’s recommendation. But he was absolutely spot on. Don’t be turned off by the ingredients: the thinly sliced strips have the perfect texture to soak with the spicy chili sauce.
Braised Whole Fish with Szechuan Chili Miso Sauce One of the chefs specialties this sauce is a perfect blend of spicy sour and sweet. Don’t miss it!
Braised Pork with Preserved Cabbage Yup that pork belly is basically soft strips of bacon. They come in a garlicky soy sauce and melt in your mouth.
Note: I was invited as a guest of the establishment and received a complimentary meal. This was not in exchange for a positive review and opinions expressed are my own.
Flaming Kitchen
97 Bowery (@ Hester St.)
New York, NY
