They say New York is the city that never sleeps, but whoever said that had never been to Bangkok. Once the scorching Thai sun sets the streets vendors fill the streets until the wee hours can make Times Square look like a sleepy residential neighborhood. In a city where many apartments lack kitchens and workers commute hours to reach the center, good cheap food is the lifeblood.
A few years ago there were calls to shut down street vendors in Bangkok to “clean up” the city. Main streets and modernized areas were the targets, particularly the business districts. Some of those areas have been cleared, but there are still 20,000 strong hawking their wares about town. Bangkok remains one of the world’s best city’s for street food.
After thorough research from locals and blogs, I hit the streets for nearly two weeks seeking out the best this sweaty metropolis has to offer. It would be fair to say I never had even a mediocre meal. It would also be fair to say I came nowhere near trying the multitude of foods these streets have to offer. But here I have compiled some places that really stand out.
Two Pad Thais Worth Checking Out
Pad Thai is probably the most loved Thai food worldwide. It’s also somewhat controversial in food circles. First off there’s the debate over whether it’s Thai at all. It’s true that it lacks the fiery heat and sour notes found in traditional cuisine. But it’s also not some Westernized creation like Chicken Tikka Masala. Pad Thai came to be during WWII when rice was scarce but Chinese noodles remained abundant. It’s probably based off Chinese dishes available in Bangkok at the time. But it definitely has a Thai touch and you’ll find plenty of locals scoffing down a bowl alongside the throngs of tourists.
If you want to try it Bangkok, you’ll have no trouble finding perfectly good versions for around 50 baht ($1.50) from street vendors all over the city. Personally I’m not a huge fan of the dish, mostly because I prefer the spicy to the citrusy sweet. But I did seek out two of the most renowned spots in town and I’m happy to report both will satisfy the Pad Thai lover and the skeptic.
Thipsamai (Old City)
Google “best pad thai in Bangkok” and you’ll end up with a bunch of articles about this place. Without a doubt this is the World’s most popular Pad Thai shop. They’re open from 5pm-2am and no matter what hour of the day you arrive the line will be stretched down the block. As soon I caught a glimpse of the bright orange noodles being tossed on the sidewalk it was clear this is no ordinary Pad Thai. The color comes from their homemade prawn oil using the heads of the river fish. It gives the noodles a slightly fishy flavor which is a nice addition to the often too sweet stir fry. You can also add some giant prawns to spruce it up but at the end of a four hour food crawl, I decided to pass on that one. The fishy-citrusy sauce and chewy chan noodles probably do make it the best pad thai I’ve ever had the pleasure of slurping down. If you’re one of those Pad Thai fanatics, give it a go. But with so many things to try in the capital, I don’t see myself waiting an hour in the sweltering Bangkok heat for another plate of it.
Baan Phad Thai (Old City)
Baan’s rendition is a more standard Pad Thai. Their secret sauce, so to speak, is giant river prawns. Why shrimp grow to nearly the size of lobsters in the waters flowing near Bangkok is something I would prefer not to think too much about. But the fact they are plump, rich, sweet addition to Pad Thai is undeniable.
Boat Noodles @ Doy Quay Teow Reua (Victory Monument)
Back in the day you would find Kuaytiew Reua (boat noodles) being passed from boat to boat along Bangkok’s many canals. As much as I love eating on the open water, it’s much more convenient nowadays to grab them on dry land. The area around Victory Monument is the place to snag a bowl, and Don Quay is the most renowned of the lot. There is no sign in English, so look for it along the canal across from a temple. The herbaceous pork noodles have a strong flavor thanks to the pig’s blood and liver in the broth. Yes that sounds intimidating but don’t let it scare you away – these things are delicious. And at 15 Baht (50 cents) per bowl there’s little to lose if you find out it’s not your thing. But if it is there’s no shame in ordering a few more. Just hold up the number of fingers of bowls you want, sit back and enjoy.
Som Tam Jay So (Silom)
Did you really think I’d miss a place with my name in it? Som Tam is the ubiquitous green papaya salad found on many Thai menus, but here it’s nothing like the sweet/soggy stuff you find at home. The salad is made fresh to order with crispy green papaya strips, peanuts, dried shrimp, lime and a bunch of herbs and spices.
The word “salad” may have you thinking this is refreshing respite from the fire of Thai cuisine. Nothing could be further from the truth. In my experience salads are the spiciest dishes in Thailand. The som tam here is no slouch in this department. Be prepared for your lips to burn for a solid 30 minutes after the meal.
You’ll also notice some chickens roasting off to the side. Get an order of that to fill out your meal and cool your mouth (assuming you go easy on the chili dipping sauce). This is definitely a spot only for spice lovers, but if that’s you this is the perfect place to try some legit Isaan (Northeast Thailand) street food.
Guay Tiew Kua Gai @ Ann Guay Tiew Kua Gai (Old City)
I consider this place a must in that 1) the noodles are incredible and 2) I’ve never seen anything like it at home. So what exactly is Guay Tiew Kua Gai? Basically you take wide rice noodles and fry them in pork fat and soy on a walk with flames so high the chef should probably be wearing welding gear. If you go around the back here you can see this in action. It’s equal parts terrifying and mesmerizing.
The high heat gives the noodles a blistering charred flavor and deep fried texture unlike any other noodle dish I have come across. Ann then tops them with chicken, garnishes and an egg (along with the usual chili accompaniments table side). The place is popular enough they have added an english menu so you’ll have no trouble ordering here and no excuse for missing it. There are a few other spots serving them in the same alley but this is the the most famous for a reason.
Yaowarat Road (Chinatown)
Not all the great street food in Bangkok is straight up Thai. Chinatown’s main drag is one of the best places on earth to embark on a food crawl. The stretch of vendors appears endless yet each has earned their place by being among the best at what they do. Check out my post and video for more on this must hit food destination.
Ek Rolled Noodle (Chinatown)
I have seen noodles made a lot of ways, but never like this. The rolling gives them a thicker, chewier texture sort of like a penne pasta. They come in a clear broth that is heavy on the pepper and herbs. Nai Ek is the most famous spot, located on Yaowarat Road in Chinatown. At lunch time the line stretched down the street, but it moves fast and we were in within 15 minutes.
Nai Ek is a simple restaurant open to the street so I’m classifying at as street food. The menu is pretty extensive with a lot of toppings for your noodle soup from all parts of the pig (organs included). I went for pork belly and I highly recommend you do the same. One of the best of my life and not too shabby for 80 baht ($2.50 USD).
Prachak (Bang Rak)
Further south in Bang Rak you’ll find Bangkok’s original Chinatown. It’s more of a mixed basket these days and includes luxury hotels like the Lebua of Hangover II fame. Bangkok Food Tours does a great morning tour of the area.
Prachak is one of the old timers opening its doors back in 1909. They still draw the crowds a century later for a reason: the roasted duck is phenomenal. It’s definitely fully Chinese, but when you have a chance to get a great duck for under $4, you take it. The duck itself is perfectly succulent but the rich, tangy sauce sauce is what sets Prachak apart. I added an order of pork belly because why not but at the end of the day I regret not getting more duck.
Raan Jay Fai (Old City)
No list would be complete without mentioning Bangkok’s only Michelin Starred street vendor (and star of episode one of Netflix’s Street Food). Sadly when I was in town Chef Junsuta was dealing with a wrist injury so the shop was closed for a month. Hopefully by the time you are reading this she will have returned to health and wok slinging. The move here as I understand it is to order the crab omelette, drunken noodles and dry tom yum. I definitely plan to visit on a future trip and will update this post when I do.
Khao San Road Area
If it’s your first time in Bangkok, you’re no doubt visiting the world’s most famous backpacker street.
On Khao San itself, you’ll mostly find people trying to sell you laughing gas balloons and buckets of badly mixed drinks. But there are a few food vendors, although I use the term loosely. The pad thai stalls are all respectable but the thing that is sure to catch your attention is the guys offering up deep fried insects. And yes, serve on a stick whole. If you can wrap your mind around it, the grasshoppers and crickets are basically just a salty crunch that will freak your friends out back home.
But if you’ve had a few buckets and really want to channel your inner Fear Factor contestant they’ve got you covered. Welcome to the world of deep fried scorpions and spiders. When embarking on this quest, note that taste is not a factor. Both are crunchy with little flavor. But the texture. I’ve eaten some weird thing in my day – horse, worms, brains, lungs, you name it. But having eight pointy legs poke into my cheeks while I tried to chew was too much. Best of luck to you if you want to take the challenge. Perhaps you’re a better/drunker fellow than I.
If you want some food you’ll actually enjoy eating, venturing slightly off Khao San is the move. There’s a pretty solid confluence of vendors near the end of Soi Rambuttri . It’s nothing award winning, but I really enjoyed both my fried chicken and selection of curries and salads from the guy in the photo.
Err (Grand Palace area)
Ok so this isn’t street food. It’s air conditioned, mainly filled with tourists and priced accordingly. But it’s located near the Grand Palace and Wat Pho which is an area generally lacking in good dining options. After a hot morning visiting both, there’s no shame in cooling off here at lunch. And the food is spectacular. They feature foods from around Thailand many of which are hard to come by in Bangkok. I ordered one of my favorite Thai dishes Kor Moo Yang (grilled pork neck with spicy sauce) and loved it.
Where To Stay
Bangkok is a sprawling metropolis with nightmarish traffic and limited public transport. So choosing the right area to stay in is an important decision. Check out my Where To Stay in Bangkok Guide to make sure you’re positioned to make the most of your time here.
Recommended Reading
If you just want a general list of popular street foods in Bangkok so you know what you’re getting into I recommend this guide from Seth Liu.
