Where you stay in Bangkok is a very important decision for a simple reason: the city is sprawling and a huge pain to get around. A limited number of major roads makes traffic a nightmare when getting from one area to the next. The metro system is improving but does not reach the main tourist sites. Especially if you’re jet lagged, you probably won’t want to spend much time hopping between neighborhoods on either of these modes of transportation. Below I’ll describe the main areas that appeal to tourists and the pros and cons of each. If you have some time, I recommend staying in more than one to get a sense of the very different sides of the city.
Bang Rak
From an accessibility standpoint, Bang Rak is the best place to stay. It’s on both a metro line and the river which allows you to easily hop a cheap ferry up to sites like the Royal Palace and Koh San Road which are not reachable by train. From a food perspective, there are some great local Chinese-Thai restaurants nearby and Yaowarat Road in Chinatown (the best street food street in SE Asia) is a short distance away.
Bang Rak has two main drawbacks. First, there are relatively few hotels and the ones that do exist are on the very low or very high end. The Lebua Tower of Hangover fame is here which I absolutely recommend if you can swing it. The rooms are massive and you can easily access the infamous rooftop bar with sprawling views (and very expensive drinks).
The other issue depends on your culture shock factor. This is not a newly touristy part of town and there is some definite grit. It’s also lacking in the nightlife department. If you want a more Western vibe and lots of higher end bars, Shukhmvit Road or Silom are for you.
Sukhumvit Road
Sukhumvit Road is probably the least Thai place in Bangkok. It’s lined with hotels, shops, bars and restaurants catering to visitors and expats from the West. It’s also your best bet for lodging in all price ranges. A metro line runs along the road so you won’t have too much trouble getting around except to the old city which can take you an hour to reach in daytime traffic. There are some very good fine dining options here but for the top street food vendors you’ll have to travel.
This is also the best place area for nightlife with tons of rooftop bars and clubs open late. Note that Sukhumvit Road is also home to two red light districts so avoid Soi Cowboy and Soi 4 if watching old men holding hands with young thai girls isn’t your thing.
Khao San Road
If you’re a backpacker or looking for super cheap accommodation, this is the area for you. Khao San is the world’s most famous backpacker street and is a spectacle any of time of day, but especially at night. Expect throngs of “gap year” travelers drinking buckets of alcohol while sucking down balloons and eating pad thai and spiders. I wouldn’t recommend eating on this road, but some nearby streets have solid food options (check out my Bangkok Street Food Guide for more info). Khao San does has the advantage of being walkable to the Grand Palace and river but is not really accessible by train. Grab (the Uber of SE Asia) drivers are also hard to come by in these parts as they are kept at bay by the “Tuk Tuk mafia.” If you take a Tuk Tuk, expect to pay 50% more than a Grab. Bargain hard and walk away when they won’t reach your highest price (this usually results in the driver accepting your offer).
