Imagine the food offerings of an Asian megacity crammed into a town of 150,000. That is Chiang Mai. Within a 30 minute stroll or short tuk tuk ride you can reach all of the best markets the city has to offer. And because the city received so many visitors, english menus are the norm. I had my first ever street food experience here over a decade ago and have made an effort to visit whenever I’m in Thailand since. There is no easier place to in Asia to get acquainted with street food.
One thing to note: don’t come to Chiang Mai expecting the Thai food you eat back home. The noodles and currys we are most familiar with come from Bangkok and the south. Chiang Mai is referred to as the “Northern Capital” and you will find mostly the bounty of this cooler, mountainous region. The flavors or the north are more sour and aromatic. Expect to see grilled meat & seafood, sausage, root vegetables and some very different noodle soups including my personal favorite Khao Soi. The unfamiliar offerings may seem intimidating at first, but everyone I know has fallen in love with the food here.
Below are some of the best food markets and restaurants I’ve come across in Chiang Mai. These should keep you pretty busy for the few days most people spend in this city. For a great introduction to Northern Thai food and a chance to explore beyond the old city are I highly recommend the Northern Food Tour by Truck by A Chef’s Tour.
North Gate Market (Chang Puak Gate)
This lively night market on the north side of the old city kicks off around 6pm and is the best place to delve into the Chiang Mai food scene. True, nearly every tourist in Chiang Mai will eat here. But that doesn’t mean you should shy away. There are reasons this place is popular. Nearly all the vendors speak basic english or have menus. Food hygiene is high and nothing is served “Thai spicy” so there’s no need to worry if you can’t take the heat. But most importantly, the variety of delicious foods is mind blowing and you’ll never find anything like it back home.
My advice is to start off by taking a stroll through the maze of carts and tables to take in the aromas and spectacle of foods being sliced, grilled and boiled before your eyes. Make notes on the things you want to try. Then order as many as you and your compatriots can stuff down. Prices are slightly higher than less tourist driven places, but still very low by Western standards. You have no excuse for holding back.
I ended up eating here twice on my last visit. It would take months to try everything so I focused on some of the more famous spots and lesser seen items. Here are a few I recommend checking out:
Stewed Pork Leg from “The Cowboy Hat Lady”
This is the one stall at North Gate Market you can’t miss. Made famous by a visit from Anthony Bourdain she’s easy to find thanks to the trademark cowboy hat and longest lines in the city. But it’s no gimmick, her Khao Kha Moo Pork Leg stew is the real deal. The leg is simmered in an out-of-this-world five spice broth and comes with chilis and garlic. She serves a whopping 400 kilos of pork and a thousand duck eggs every night, but somehow she’s always happy to put down the knife for a second to smile for a photo.
Pla Pao (Salt Grilled Fish)
This is one I’ve never seen in America so grab it while you’re here. Pla Pao is a whole fish caked in salt to keep it moist through the grilling process. But what makes it for me is the lemongrass and kaffir lime stuffing. These are two of my favorite Thai flavors and they’re much more intense with the fresh produce of their homeland. The fish comes with a side of garlic chili sauce that I would happily guzzle on its own. You’ll see it from a few of the seafood vendors and while I’m not sure how to describe which one I went to, rest assured the standards are high at this market.
Charcoal Grilled Prawns
There’s clearly something in the water in Thailand. Well, there are actually a lot of things. But for whatever reason the river prawns here grow to massive proportions and are plumper and juicier than anything found in in our seas. And because they’re local, they are also extremely inexpensive. Make sure to order a few while you’re here and taste the difference.
Grilled Meats
I’m fairly certain someone in every country on earth someone is charcoal grilling meat at any given point in time. In fact, I bet if you traveled to a distant planet and threw whatever animals they have on a firepit they would immediately get you. So it’s hard to say grilled meat is an absolute must in Thailand. But feel free to snack on any of them to your delight to fill out a meal. The one item that demands to be tried: the sausage known as Sai Oua. The blend of spices and herbs is unlike any encased meat you’ve ever gotten your hands on. Try it off the grill here or the award winning version at Thanin Market.
Khao Soi at Khao Soi Khun Yai
If I only had time for one meal in Chiang Mai, it would be Khao Soi. The yellow coconut curry is one of my favorites and the texture from the crispy deep fried egg noodles make it one of Thailand’s greatest dishes.
Why it’s so difficult to find in the USA will forever remain a mystery to me but that makes it all the more important you give it a try while you’re in town. You will find khao soi at nearly every market and restaurant in Chiang Mai and I’ve never had a bad one here.
That said, the beef version from Khao Soi Khun Yai is undoubtedly my favorite. They’re located just inside the North Gate and only open for lunch so make sure to squeeze this in the day you spend exploring in town.
Gai Yang at SP Chicken
Charcoal grilled chicken might not sound like the most exotic dish in Thailand, but trust me these guys do it well. It’s also something a little closer to home if you need a break from spicy salads and curry. The chicken cooks upside-down spinning over a charcoal pit to ensure even cooking and a perfect crispy skin. What truly makes it Thai are the dipping sauces. The dark nam jim jaew made of chili, fish sauce, lime juice and onion is my favorite, but there are sweeter tomato based ones if the heat is too much for you. Hit this place up for lunch or a snack after visiting Wat Chedi Luang a couple blocks away.
Siri Wattana aka Thanin Market
For the real local market experience, head to Thanin Market. The food section is a mix of grocery and ready to eat items. A stroll through the fresh food side will yield you plenty of exotic fruits and entire animals flayed and up for sale. Some of the weirder finds were frog on a stick, silk worms, lamb brains and what my guide described as “buffalo shit juice.” Yes, it’s exactly what is sounds like. No parts wasted here.
Whether or not that adventure suits you, the prepared food section is an experience anyone can enjoy. Top vendors receive awards and the honor of posting a bowl on their stand for easy identification. One must stop is the “Sausage Lady” purported to serve the best Sau Au (Thai sausage) in Chiang Mai. There’s also a made to order station for Nam Prik (a Thai chili sauce with shrimp or fish paste) that’s definitely worth checking out.
Note that few of the vendors here speak much english. If that intimidates you or you want more info, consider taking a tour. I highly recommend A Chefs Tour which spends close to an hour walking you through the market.
Warorot Market
You will find a lot of the same produce and meats for sale around the chaotic Warorot Market. It’s heavily frequented by locals and tourists alike. The dining section runs a little later than Thanin so it’s better choice in evening or for dinner. They also have a big selection of desserts for sale by the river up until around midnight. A lot of them are painfully sugary but look out for coconut cakes and sticky rice with coconut pudding.
The most famous stall here is the “Noodle Soup Lady” who has inhabited her spot for over 20 years. She had four types going when I visited – a green and red curry, pork blood and fermented fish. I know pork blood sounds intimidating but it actually adds a great richness to the soup without the metallic/offal I associate with it. They all come with fish balls and a bunch of condiments you can use to season to your content.
For a more comprehensive list of the types of street food available in Chiang Mai, I recommend this guide from Authentic Food Quest.
