There may be no city more famed for street food than Singapore. Which is sort of ironic considering actually selling food on the street was banned decades ago. Today the action takes place in what are known as Hawker Centers. Think of them as something similar to a mall food court. But unlike your local shopping center there are no Subways, Mickey Ds or Sbarros. The occupants of these gastronomic temples are mostly former street food vendors who have been honing their craft for decades. Centers range from a dozen to over a hundred hawkers with nearly every item coming in well under $10. This makes them one of the finest places on earth to enjoy a feast with friends.
One thing you’ll surely notice is that most stalls are run by people over 50. No, there isn’t some age requirement to hawk. Sadly for us (but probably good for them) younger Singaporeans do not want to work fourteen hour days six days a week selling $5 bowls of noodles. The next couple decades will therefore likely be the end of Singapore’s hawker culture as we know it. So enjoy it while you can.
Singapore has literally thousands of stalls in dozens of hawker centers so figuring out where to begin is your biggest challenge. Narrowing down an itinerary for a mere four day food trip to Singapore was more difficult than in any other city. But after meticulous research and visits to around twenty highly touted stalls, these are the hawkers and food centers I recommend.
The Michelin Starred
In 2016 the food world was shocked when The Michelin Guide awarded a star to two Singapore hawker stalls. My stuffy cousin (jk no relation!) was finally ready to admit not all great meals are served in fancy white table cloth restaurants. If you’re impressed by such things – as admittedly I was – you’ll probably want to see what the fuss is about. Just know that while both were great, neither was my favorite meal in Singapore.
Soya Sauce Chicken Rice @ Liao Fan Hawker Chan
Liao Fan Hawker Chan (f/k/a Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle) has been touted as “the world’s cheapest Michelin starred meal.” It has since evolved from hawker stall into something that more closely resembles a KFC. Fluorescent lighting, TV screen menus and free wifi await you when you enter. Sadly, this is probably a glimpse of the future of eating in Singapore.
Fortunately the food has not slipped to American fast-casual standards. The signature Soya Sauce Chicken is still everything you could want. It sounds like a pretty simple dish – a chicken marinated in soya sauce and roasted along with a side of rice cooked in the chicken fat. But the execution is flawless.
Gan Mian @ Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle
Tai Hwa was the other Singapore hawker to receive Michelin gold in 2016. This one is still located in a fairly small food center although its growing a little too big for its britches. Even coming at an off hour on a weekday we waited around forty minutes and I’ve heard it can be up to two hours at prime times.
I wasn’t exactly sure what to order here, but fortunately the extended time in the queue gave me a chance to chat with locals in front of me. The “number three” Gan Mian was offered as the best item with the number two Guo Tiao Tang recommended as a second option. As there were three of us we got a medium order of each.
The Gan Mian is a delight to the senses with springy noodles tossed in a vinegar and chili sauce with multiple types of pork. The Guo Tiao Tang is similar but in a clear broth soup without the vinegar sauce. None of us thought this one was anything special. So yeah the Gan Mian is definitely the way to go at Tai Hwa. But is it worth the wait? With so much great hawker food in Singapore I would say not.
Hawker Centers
Old Airport Road Food Center
Many Singaporeans will tell you this is the best food center in town. Many of Singapore’s old street food vendors relocated here making it the perfect spot for a classic local meal. It’s a little out the way and not near any MRT lines but it’s absolutely worth the trip. Just be warned it gets very busy at night.
Albert Street Prawn Noodle
Who wouldn’t want a giant prawn in their noodle soup? Prawn Mee is a popular dish in Singapore for a reason. And Albert Street open since 1963 is considered one of the best. I ordered the bowl including pork ribs because again, who wouldn’t want that? The broth definitely picks up on both the pork and seafood elements but still is not too rich with a moderate amount of spice. The prawn itself was perfectly plump and juicy while the pork ribs were a little overcooked. It’s definitely worth grabbing a bowl here.
Cho Kee Noodle
Cho Kee wasn’t recommended to me, but a lot of the fun at hawker centers is just wandering around seeing what looks good. And man did the char siu on those noodles look tasty! We shared a bowl and were not disappointed. The egg noodles were springy and the chili sambal sauce packed just the right punch. The barbecue flavor on the char siu was also outstanding, even if the meat was a touch dry.
Hong Lim Road Food Center
You’re almost certainly going to visit Chinatown in Singapore and when you do, this is where you want to eat (skip the touristy “Chinatown Food Street.”) Lots of Chinatown’s old street vendors were moved in here in 70s so you’ll get a taste of some perfectly executed Chinese-Singaporean food.
Ah Heng Curry Chicken Bee Hoon Mee
We stumbled upon this one because of the long line, but it has also won numerous awards. It’s exactly what it sounds like but also isn’t. Yes, it is chicken in a bowl of curry. But the fragrant flavor of the curry was among the best in southeast Asia. Then there’s the chicken. Ah Heng only orders a specific size to ensure the meat is tender and not stringy. The chicken is then pounded and chopped to order instead of sitting in the soup all day to overcook as it does at many places. Then as a bonus there’s the side of smoky savory chili sauce. This place just kills it.
Famous Sungei Road Trishaw Laksa
Having just come from ten days in Malaysia, I thought I had had my fill of Laksa. Nope. The version here is unlike anything else. The broth is made with dried scallops, prawns and oysters which gives it a more savory taste than the typical coconut soup. I ordered the “Asia Delight” which comes packed with prawns, cockles, fishcakes and chicken along with thick vermicelli noodles. A delight indeed. The owner Mr. Soo also chatted with us after the meal about how excited we chose his stall in Sinagpore and his desire to travel more. Just a great experience all around.
Amoy Street Food Center
Amoy Street is smack in the middle of the CBD so it’s incredibly popular with the local lunch crowd. Fortunately the place is massive so with a little wandering you can always find a seat. It’s worth a visit for their six Michelin Guide recommended stalls and offerings beyond the local foods you find at most food centers.
A Noodle Story
Hawker Centers aren’t all just filled with dishes Singaporeans have been eating for generations. A Noodle Story’s signature Singapore Ramen is the brainchild of young “hawkerpreneurs” and I guarantee you have never had anything like it.
The first thing I noticed when I arrived is this place is incredibly popular. I waited 30 minutes to order than another fifteen for the ramen to arrive at weekday lunch time (to be fair it is located in the CBD). They typically sell out by mid-afternoon so there’s really no way around the lines. But it’s so worth it.
The bowl is filled with a smattering of some of my favorite foods: chashu (braised pork belly), wontons, hot spring egg, crispy potato wrapped prawn, scallions and egg noodles. The broth is pleasantly light and herbal although definitely not what you think of as ramen. But it doesn’t matter. The flavors compose a symphony in your mouth and each bite is different depending what you choose to include. Whether or not it should qualify as “ramen” is up for debate, but the fact that this one fantastic noodle soup is not.
J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff
When I was looking at the Singapore Michelin Bib Gourmand list, I was surprised to find a place that only makes curry puffs! It seemed too simple. But I was already at Amoy for A Noodle Story and figured I would give these a try. I recommend you do the same. The pastry is the perfect balance of crispy and flaky like a well executed croissant. I ordered one of their specialties which is the sardine filling with tomato and onion, but they have other flavors if that’s not your thing.
Tekka Center Little India
One part of Singapore that doesn’t get enough tourist attention is Little India. Stepping off the MRT stop you feel like you’re in a completely different city. Colorful and buzzing it’s the polar opposite of the rest of this buttoned up town. And not surprisingly it’s a great spot to get your hands on some good Indian grub.
There are a number of well regarded restaurants in the area, but if you want to eat cheap and try lots of things the Tekka Center is the place to be. The air of spices hits your nose as soon as you walk in. Walking through the stalls I found basically every Indian dish you can imagine here. These three were my favorites:
Biryani @ Yakader Muslim Food
Vidai @ Sky Lab Cooked Food
Garlic Chili Naan @ Shavn-e-Punjab
Chili Crab
Any guide to Singaporean food would be incomplete without a mention of the nation-state’s most iconic dish: Chili Crab. Personally, I also think it’s the most overrated. It’s too rich. It’s too expensive. And it’s wayyy too hard to eat. A crab served whole in the shell comes covered in thick savory-sweet curry sauce. So you have to crack it open while it’s swimming in hot liquid. You’re going want as many napkins as the vendor will allow you and then some. Too much work for too little payoff for me so I didn’t feel the need to eat it again on my last trip. But you should probably try it once. Here are a few recommended spots I accrued from locals and guides:
- Long Beach Seafood Restaurant
- Red House
- No Signboard
Where to Stay
In general, I would say Clark Quay or the harbor outside the CBD are the choicest locales. Clark Quay is the “nightlife area” but it’s also a short walk to Chinatown and near several MRT lines. I wouldn’t recommend staying in the center of the CBD which is very business oriented, but if you’re just outside you’ll be in close proximity to the MRT and walking distance to a lot sites. Most of the Food Centers mentioned above are near these areas or a short MRT/taxi ride away.
If you can swing it, spend at least a night or two at the Marina Bay Sands. Usually I prefer to save my budget for food instead of luxury hotels, but the Sands is worth every penny. The place is gorgeous and gives you prime access to two of Singapore’s premier attractions: The Gardens by the Bay and the World’s Largest rooftop infinity pool. The room we had was luxurious and massive with a huge terrace where we drank wine overlooking the Gardens every night. Since they are open 24 hours we were also able to slip down after midnight and (almost) have the place to ourselves. Then there’s the pool with a panoramic view of the city which is only open to guests of the hotel. Truly a bucket list experience.
Recommended Reading
For a more comprehensive list of places to try, Seth Liu has a great guide to all the things I didn’t have time to eat. They also review basically every noteworthy stall in Singapore.
