Penang, Malaysia isn’t a city on many Westerners bucket lists. Most people probably haven’t even heard of it. But among foodies in Asia, it has long been one of the top places for a food pilgrimage. I came across it while researching the best street food city’s and booked myself a five day stay to find out what all the fuss was about.
When I started chatting with some locals, it was easy to see why this place is so popular in food circles. Penang has been a city of foodies long before that term existed. Everyone seems to have their favorite spots and if you ask they are thrilled to share with you. I was told it’s typical to eat six meals a day: breakfast, “elevens,” lunch, a mid-afternoon snack, a larger dinner and then a final late supper. Hawkers open at different hours throughout the day making this daily food crawl possibly.
What do people eat all day? Malaysian food hasn’t really caught on in the West and when you find it, it’s usually more representative what’s found on the south of the peninsula. Most of the dishes and flavors in Penang were unlike anything I had tried back home which is what made it such an exciting place to eat. Broadly speaking Penang cuisine is a mixture of the Hokkien Chinese, Malay and Indian populations that have long inhabited the island, but it’s also definitely its own animal.
Below are some of Penang’s most famous dishes and the hawkers where I sampled them. If you’re looking to learn more about Penang cuisine and sample a lot of it in a short time, I highly recommend this tour by Food Tour Penang.
Laksa @ Penang Road Famous Laksa
If you’ve had laksa in the West, chances are what came out is a spicy coconutty soup. Re-calibrate your expectations in Penang. The coconut broth is popular in southern Malaysia, but in the north they serve what’s called Assam-style. It’s a spicy- sour fish based stock made from dissolving sardines and mackerel with fish paste, chilis and other spices.
Famous Penang Road Laksa frequented by local politicians and celebrities is one of the best places to try a bowl. The funky taste may not be for everyone but I loved the intense flavors of these noodles.
Char Kuey Teow @ Penang Road Famous Char Kuey Teow
Char Kuey Teow is one of the most popular dishes thoroughout Malaysia. The name literally means “stir-fried rice cake strips” in reference to the thick, wide rice noodles. Toppings vary but some of the popular ones include shrimp, egg, sausage, bean sprouts and blood cockles.
The most important aspect of a good Char Kuey Teow is the “char” itself. The noodles must be cooked at very high heat (ideally in an old wok) to soa up a smoky charred flavor. The Penang Road version does a great job so I recommend a stop here on the mini-food crawl you should be doing on this street.
Chendul @ Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul
Admittedly, I had no idea what Chendul was when I arrived in Penang. It looks like something a child would make if you let him them create their own dessert with no limits. But it turns out to be the perfect antidote to eating a spicy meal on a scorching Penang afternoon. Which is every afternoon by the way!
The basic Chendul is coconut milk mixed with red beans and jelly noodles over ice. Teochew’s version is probably the world’s most famous now that it has become a chain with locations all over Southern Asia. This is the original. The coconut milk is sweetened with Gula Melaka which gives it a sort of coffee-caramel taste. Chewy beans and jelly noodles add an interesting gummy texture, but don’t taste like much on their own. Honestly, I really enjoyed my Chendul for just how refreshing it was even if it’s a little sweet for my taste.
Interesting side note the owner has done so well he know owns most of the space on Penang Road. He has very high standards for who he lets set up shop which is why you can trust all the vendors here will be top notch.
Ban Chang Kuih (Banana & Peanut Pancake) @ Pulau Tikus Hawker Center
Ban Chang Kuih is a popular breakfast and snack in Penang (remember they love their snacks here!) It’s traditionally a Hokkien Chinese dish that involves stuffing a pancake with crushed peanuts, sugar and margarine among other things. The stall I visited at Palau Tikus had a number of filling options but I went with the banana that blends perfectly with the peanuts. It’s like a fancy version of the peanut butter banana sandwiches I loved growing up.
Curry Mee @ Sister Curry Mee
Curry Mee was my favorite dish in Malaysia. It comes in a spicy coconut broth along with egg or vermicelli noodles, or both. Tofu and blood cubes are standard toppings, but some vendors will add pork and seafood.
Sister Curry Mee is probably the most famous and has a great story behind it. Basically two sisters opened this shop during WWII and now pushing ninety they still run it six days a week! You can learn more by watching the Parts Unknown episode in Penang where Anthony Bourdain paid them a visit.
The location in Air Itam is a trek from Georgetown (where you’re probably staying), but it is near the Kek Lok Si Temple and Penang Hill so you can swing on the way to visit them. And definitely do it on the way there not back. This is basically a breakfast establishment. Yes, spicy fish curry for breakfast! They’re open from 7:30am-1pm but when I arrived a little before noon they had already run out of their signature squid. Get here early!
Hokkien Prawn Mee with Roast Pork @ Hokkien 888
Here it is THE BEST thing I ate in Penang. 888’s is different style of curry mee from Sister with a spicier broth and toppings that are a little more my taste. Hokkien lets you customize your bowl with essentially any part of the pig you can fathom: belly, ribs, skin, intestines, liver are all on the table. I played it safe with the roast pork which was the perfect compliment to the prawns. The Presgrave Street Hawker Center location I visited is conventionality located just outside historic Georgetown. Apparently the two blocks it lies outside of the UNESCO area is far enough to keep most tourists at bay – there was not single Westerner to be found in the entire hawker center when I visited.
Bak Kwa Bun @ Presgrave Street Hawker Center
Wandering through the Presgrave Street Center after my prawn mee, I spotted this stall and was intrigued. A line had accrued for a meat of unclear origin placed on a roll. Some Chinese newspapers I couldn’t read were hanging around the sides of the stall that appeared to give the place some serious cred. I decided to dig in.
The vendor spoke no English so I just pointed to the photo in the newspaper article and was handed this mystery meat filled bun. I bit into it and found an enjoyable mix of salty-sweet and five spice. After some further research, I deduced it was (probably) Bak Kwa – a Chinese/Malaysian pork jerky. Grab one as a snack and I’m sure you won’t be disappointed.
Nasi Lemak @ Ali Nasi Lemak Dugan Pisang
You’ll see Nasi Lemak at breakfast and snack times all over Penang. It’s easy to spot packaged in it’s signature pyramid shaped banana leaf. Open it up and you’ll find coconut flavored rice along with sambal and typically dried anchovies. It’s probably not what you think of as breakfast, but hey it does come with a hard boiled egg so there you go.
Ali is one of the most famous vendors and you’ll find a line spilling onto the street at pretty much any hour of the day. They actually offer several meat and fish toppings, but I decided to go with the classic anchovy. I took it as breakfast before the 10am walking tour which conveniently starts at the tourism office a block away. I will say this: it wakes you up in the morning! The sambal is probably the hottest thing I ate in Malaysia. But it’s also balanced by the coconut rice and you can ask them to tone it down.
Kimberly Street Duck Kway Chap
I will be the first to admit this one will not get everyone quacking. Kway Chap basically takes all the parts of the duck and makes them into a savory noodle soup. And I do mean all. The offal taste was a little strong for my liking, but if you’re into that I can see how you would dig it. Kimberly Street gets high praise from locals, so this is a great option if you want to give Kway Chap a try.
Hainan Chicken Rice @ Goh Thew Chic
Need a break from all the spicy and sour? The Hainanese chicken rice at Goh Thew Chic is a perfect comfort food to settle the stomach. A poached chicken sits in soy sauce and scallions with a side of chili sauce and seasoned rice. Just be warned the lunch lines can get long!
Roti Jala @ Sungai Pinang Food Court Paradise
If you want to escape the tourist zone, this food center is a great stop. It’s equal parts food court, local hang and sports bar with giant TVs showing whatever game happens to be going on. You’ll find everyone from teens to families to old men kicking back here. And the number of stalls on offer is mind blowing. There’s all the Malay classics along with Indian dishes and some thing you definitely won’t see back home. Dried cuttlefish, frog porridge and brains come to mind. I didn’t eat anything too weird, but one thing definitely worth seeking out is this Roti Jala.
Maybe you’ve had the Indian flat bread called roti. This is nothing like it. Roti Jala sort of looks like a pasta, but it’s actually a tumeric and coconut pancake run through a noodle press. Half of the fun is watching the chef drizzle the batter onto the pan to form something that resembles a Jackson Pollock painting. Once it hardens the Roti Jala is used to dip into whatever curries you order. I went with chicken, fish and daal.
Recommended Reading
For more things to try in Penang, I recommend the must eat street food guide from Seth Lui and the more extensive picks from local blogger Ken Hunts Food.
